kimarielle
Newbie

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« on: April 01, 2008, 11:58:08 AM » |
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This question is for you, Susan. You and I have corresponded before, about a year or so ago, about some of the pigments in your limited pallette. Hello, again! My question is regarding the original pencil drawing. How do you transfer your drawings onto your watercolor paper? You don't go into that in your video. You also mention using an F pencil. On your video, I can clearly see the pencil drawing as you begin your painting. Do you always leave so much pencil on your paper before you begin, or was that done so that we could see it in the video? Currently, I am doing a full rendering in graphite on drawing paper, tracing the "cartoon", or line drawing onto tracing paper, then either using a light box or graphite transfer paper to imprint the basic outline onto my watercolor paper. Then I go in and lift most of the graphite away using an eraser. What a royal pain! How do YOU do it? I am hoping you can offer me a shortcut! Also, I really like the idea of leaving so much graphite on the watercolor paper so that you can really see what you are doing as you paint, but won't it show through in your finished work or "pollute" your painting? Thanks so much. I am still hoping you can come to Denver someday...Maine is a bit expensive for me just now. All the best- hope you can help. Kimberly Gipson
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Susan Harrison-Tustain
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« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2008, 10:38:20 PM » |
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Hi Kimberley I often freehand my drawings onto my paper. I usually rub my pencil down until it is only just dark enough for me to see the detail. I always rub my pencil out when I have finished my painting.
In the past I have used graphite paper to transfer the image from a drawing on scrap paper to my good paper. This sometimes smudges but can be rubbed out easily.
For my workshops, I suggest my students hold the template I send them (in their workshop packages) up to a window and place their paper on top of it. On a sunny day it is easy to transfer the detail to your Arches hot pressed paper. Naturally you stretch your paper once the drawing is complete if you use this method.
If I do either of the above two methods of transfer, I then go over the drawing and check each area with my subject reference to ensure I have interpretted the outlines correctly. You will become more familiar with your subject if you do this. It is invaluable to know how each petal folds, or each fold of fabric is connected with the others. Observation and familiarity are the key here.
I wish there was an easy and quicker way as you wish Kimberley - but remember that what ever you create will be here for many generations. Put in the time to create something special, and you will touch people and connect with your viewers for several life-times. Strive to be different - that takes time - that's why it is rare.
Good questions. Thanks for asking. I will discuss this in my next DVD
Susan
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D.Saile
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« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2009, 01:29:15 AM » |
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The tutorial links are not working for me temporary ?.
Could someone, please, post the tutorial or new links ? I really like this colored pencil look, I would love to try it.
Thank you... Joy
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Renee
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« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2009, 05:17:49 AM » |
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D.Salle, I'm not familiar with the tutorial links on this forum. Are you talking about the ones on Susan's main home website? The tutorial links are not working for me temporary ?.
Could someone, please, post the tutorial or new links ? I really like this colored pencil look, I would love to try it.
Thank you... Joy
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Jade
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« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2009, 08:30:25 AM » |
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I use an F pencil to draw on my WC paper. I'm careful not to press too hard so that it won't make embedded marks on the paper. When I'm finished - I use the soft, pliable gum eraser to get rid of the excess graphite. Sometimes, I draw directly & sometimes, if the subject is very complicated, I use a light box to transfer my drawing.
I also use a clean piece of typing paper, or something like that, under my hand so that I don't leave any oil from my hand on the paper. I don't know if my hand touching the paper would affect the surface & not accept the paint the same as any untouched areas.
I hold a piece of the gum eraser in my hand to soften it into kind of a sausage shape & then I gently roll that piece of eraser over my entire drawing. That way, it is not abrading the paper in any way.
Not sure if this is the norm - but it's the way that I do it.
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marylka
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2009, 12:28:41 PM » |
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Hi Jade That is a good habit to get into placing a piece of paper to rest your hand on as we do transfer oils from our skin,also I am careful with a kneadable eraser as that also contains oil products that can interfere with the pigments. Marylka
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The more I learn, the more I want to learn, an never ending journey is my passion for art. www.marylkaart.com (home of the Colour Preveiwers)
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Christt
Newbie

Posts: 2
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2010, 10:47:45 PM » |
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Chisel-point or blunt pencils are useful for some techniques, but for most pencil drawing, keep your pencil sharp. Don't worry about 'wasting' graphite in the sharpener - better than wasting your drawing efforts! Brighten the point by rubbing the side of the pencil on scrap paper between sharpening. If you need a darker line, use a softer pencil, and be aware that a softer pencil goes blunt quickly. A mechanical side-to-side shading motion, with each stroke ending below the last as the hand is moved down the page creates unwanted bands of tone through the shaded area. To prevent this, work back and forth over the same area, randomly varying the spot where the pencil-point changes direction.
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marylka
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« Reply #8 on: April 02, 2010, 07:48:49 PM » |
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Chisel-point or blunt pencils are useful for some techniques, but for most pencil drawing, keep your pencil sharp. Don't worry about 'wasting' graphite in the sharpener - better than wasting your drawing efforts! Brighten the point by rubbing the side of the pencil on scrap paper between sharpening. If you need a darker line, use a softer pencil, and be aware that a softer pencil goes blunt quickly. A mechanical side-to-side shading motion, with each stroke ending below the last as the hand is moved down the page creates unwanted bands of tone through the shaded area. To prevent this, work back and forth over the same area, randomly varying the spot where the pencil-point changes direction.
Hi Christt Thank you for sharing and welcome. marylka
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The more I learn, the more I want to learn, an never ending journey is my passion for art. www.marylkaart.com (home of the Colour Preveiwers)
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