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Author Topic: Gallery for SusanArt Painting Challenge Finished Images  (Read 2986 times)
poppycat
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« Reply #60 on: January 25, 2010, 02:00:07 AM »

Hello Susan, many thanks for taking the time to look at my attempt at the leaf challenge, I really enjoyed painting it, as mentioned above, to the girls, I am also painting the bowl and rose from your Dvd I will post it when finished (if it passes the Husband test- my own personal critic, who I might add does not paint, and only "knows what he likes")  Know what I mean?  Once again, many thanks, Regards, Patricia.
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marylka
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« Reply #61 on: January 25, 2010, 01:50:07 PM »

Hello Renee, Marylka and Artemesia, thank you girls, for taking the time to get in touch, it is much appreciated.  I am painting the bowl and rose from Susan's Dvd at the moment, and this leaf challenge was a great thing to do along side.  (I quite often do that)  - have a main subject and something smaller to work on alongside.  I find I can then go back to the main subject refreshed.  Do any of you do this?  Regards, Patricia.
[/quote
Yes Patricia often especially back grounds i will practice this first before hand.What i do is print out a small ref pic of what i'm going to paint paint the b/g then  on a small piece of water color paper then cut around the image and place that on top the dry b/g.I can paint several this way and choose the best and keep the practise for future b/g

Marylka
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Renee
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« Reply #62 on: January 25, 2010, 02:11:08 PM »

I have done that a few times, but cannot most of the time because there is so little room on my table. I have to take a break to rest my eyes while my paint drys.
Hello Renee, Marylka and Artemesia, thank you girls, for taking the time to get in touch, it is much appreciated.  I am painting the bowl and rose from Susan's Dvd at the moment, and this leaf challenge was a great thing to do along side.  (I quite often do that)  - have a main subject and something smaller to work on alongside.  I find I can then go back to the main subject refreshed.  Do any of you do this?  Regards, Patricia.
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I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. Pablo Picasso
Artemesia
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« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2010, 10:47:57 PM »

Hello Renee, Marylka and Artemesia, thank you girls, for taking the time to get in touch, it is much appreciated.  I am painting the bowl and rose from Susan's Dvd at the moment, and this leaf challenge was a great thing to do along side.  (I quite often do that)  - have a main subject and something smaller to work on alongside.  I find I can then go back to the main subject refreshed.  Do any of you do this?  Regards, Patricia.

Hi Patricia,

Yes, I have 3 or 4 paintings on the go at the moment.  I have some time off work and I'm trying to cram 6 months worth of painting into a short amount of time as possible  Cheesy  Having said that I do need to have a main focus to work on and the others are usually in some form of preparation stage. I do think it is good to have some time away from the main painting to help you look at it from a different perspective.

Wendy
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francy
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« Reply #64 on: January 28, 2010, 02:55:36 AM »

hello this is my attempt for a rose leave not great in my opinion, i can see that as onfinished look but do not know how to bring it to next level


* leave4.jpg (32.34 KB, 408x358 - viewed 64 times.)
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Artemesia
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« Reply #65 on: January 28, 2010, 03:14:25 AM »

Hi Francy,

I like your leaf ...it looks very natural!

Wendy

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Susan Harrison-Tustain
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« Reply #66 on: January 29, 2010, 12:17:24 AM »

Hello Francy

Your leaf is really gorgeous. Lovely colours and look at that glow! Well done.

It is lovely for me to see how well everyone is doing.

Suggestions:
You can take this beautiful study to the next level quite simply:

One of the things I find most often is artists often stop too soon.

You have an excellent study here and with just a few minor additions - this leaf will be three dimensional.

One thing to watch out for is the veins of the leaf go right to the edge of the leaf. This sometimes happens in nature and if it does - it can make the leaf look a little like a skeleton. So if I see it in nature - I change it so the end of the veins become "lost". Nebulous.

It is easy for you to acheive this: Lay a clear water wash over one half of the leaf. Just as it is about to soak into the paper - use a soft scrubby brush (I use da Vinci series 122 Nova synthetic - see the list of suppliers here: http://www.harrison-tustain.com/suppliers.html

Now with an extremely gentle circular motion - rub the surface of the leaf at the end of the veins (about the last 8th of the vein). If you have used my priming method and use your scrubby gently enough  - you will find you will soften the ends of the veins and the colours will merge so the veins are no longer visable.

Let your paper dry completely.

Now throw another clear water wash over the same side of the leaf again and that will ensure the lifted pigment is absorbed into the paper.

Dry

Now lets have fun creating shadows:
The light source will be constant. Lets imagine it is from the front of the leaf. This will give you highlights on the front raised area of each segment. Naturally that would cause the back side of each segment to have a more shaded area as it folds back away from the light.

You will remember that generally when the light is natural light such as daylight - the highlights are cool and the shadows will be warm. So we need to bring some slightly warmer shadow hues to the back areas of the segments.

You could begin by lifting some of your green out of the front of each segment. This would give the leaf the impression of being shiny. In this case - I dont think that is necessary. Let's imagine this is one of those leaves that does not have a shiny surface.

You will establish the look of raised segments by simply laying in a slightly warmer shadow hue on the back edge of each segment.

To do this I suggest you work on each segment separately and allow it to dry before you wet the adjoining segment. I would work on one segment on the right hand side of the leaf and while that is drying I would begin working on one segment on the left hand side - and so on. Just ensure your wet areas do not meet.

Wet a segment. Allow it to seep in - but still have a sheen on the paper. One the back edge of the segment, drop in a wash of Scarlet red, a touch of thalo blue and a touch of sap green. Dab this in and work along the vein - almost to the edge. The slightly wet surface should pull the pigment up and onto the imaginary raised top of the segment roll. If the pigment doesnt flow - then you will know you need a little more water in your initial clear water wash. Dab off your colour and begin that segment again using more water.

Do be careful not to add too much red in your shadow mix. Keep the balance of the mix green/blue. Too much red will blacken the hue.

BUT as soon as you have come close to the end of the vein/edge of the leaf - use another brush that is just damp with clear water. Touch the shadow mix with your slightly damp - clear water -  brush and allow the colour to flair and then settle in a gradual blend so the very end of the vein is not distinguishable. Naturally the earlier/beginning of the vein will be quite definate.

As the segment dries - just keep an eye on it to ensure no hard edges are developing. If they are - just use your very slightly damp brush and soften them. Simple!

Now you will have a lovely roll to your segments.

There are a number of reasons for this:
-You will now have created a change in the colour temperature of the back part of each segment.  The shadow mix is warmer than the local green you have used on the leaf.

-The tonal value will be darker - because you have more dense colour - due to the additional wash of colour

-This will not only give the impression of a shadow on the back edge of the segment - but it will give a contrast to the front edge - and also the front edge of the segment behind the one you are working on.

-This contrast will make the front edge appear lighter and also give the impression of a slight highlight on that leading edge.

Naturally you would allow each segment to dry. Once complete and bone dry- throw a clear water wash over the leaf. This is a magical thing to do as it softens edges and reduces any demarcation lines that have formed. It gently lifts the tiny amount of residue colour sitting on the surface. It redistributes it and when it settles - it softens the edges and gives a gentle natural look to the leaf.

But please do remember - you can only do this on a totally bone dry painting.

One last thing - I often see a shadowed edge running alongside the spine of a leaf. If the leaf you are referencing has this - then remember to pop that in with your shadow colour while you have it mixed on your palette.

You have a lovely uneven spine - just as it would be in nature. Be sure to create that same effect if you are adding a shadow to your spine. A straight and perfect spine looks very unnatural. Your leaf looks so beautiful it would be a pity to detract from that.

Oh yes - just one tiny thing that will also help give the impression of reality: I like to make my spine and spine shadow look as if it runs in and out of the segments. It is hard to put into words: Imagine each segment is raised and there is a puff area that very slightly raises up covering a small amount of the spine. This is gives the spine it's uneven look. Hmmmm - maybe I should post a close up detail. That will show you exactly what I mean.

Take a look at the way the veins seems to be slightly curved at the edges where they meet with the spine. They do not hit is at right angles.

Okay - I hope that all makes sense. It is after midnight - so my head is about to shut down for the night!

Please let me know if I have confused the issue!

I particularly love the serrated edges you have created Francy  and the curve on the stem is lovely. This leaf really flows well and I am so proud of you when I see your fresh glowing colours! Beautiful work!

Susan


* constance spry leaves cropped.jpg (70.49 KB, 111x425 - viewed 57 times.)
« Last Edit: January 29, 2010, 08:39:42 AM by Susan Harrison-Tustain » Logged

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francy
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« Reply #67 on: January 29, 2010, 06:03:08 AM »

hello  susan thank you so much for taking the time and  explain to me the next steps, on how i can make my leave look three dimensional i am stamping everything  you have said so i can read over and try all your suggestion thank you again for giving your time so generously. Smiley
Francesca
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Susan Harrison-Tustain
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« Reply #68 on: January 29, 2010, 08:35:02 AM »

You are most welcome Francesca

I love to teach - and it is so exciting for me to see artists join in to these challenges as not only do they help extend the artist to the next stage - the lesson/suggestions are there for everyone to learn from. These lessons are universal - the messages can be applied to any subject. So it is time well spent.

I can see how beautifully you have created your leaf - the washes are gorgeous. I strive to create my leaves in the same manner - and then I simply fine tune them as I have suggested above. So you were already doing so very well.

I look forward to seeing your next stage.

PS do be careful not to add too much red in your shadow mix. Keep the balance of the mix green/blue. Too much red will blacken the hue. I will paste this last sentence in the message above too.

Happy painting!
Susan
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Susan Harrison-Tustain
Gallery, tutorials, DVDs and more
http://www.susanart.com
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